Tehran is a vibrant metropolis — Iran's social, artistic and educational center. While women can dress as they like at home, in public they wear the chador and are expected not to show their hair or showoff the shape of their body. Oil flowed easy and he was a friend of western oil companies. Helmet laws are generally ignored. Woman: Yes, it's a law in Iran. Woman: Yes, government has a lot of war with each other because they benefit but there's no war between people. I came to Iran a little nervous. Despite the conservative atmosphere, we found students friendly, curious, and willing to chat. Browsing in its malls and classy shops, you could be in London or Paris. And using technology from the days of David and Goliath, a farmer slings a rock to frighten the birds off his barley. Still, even with the constraints of dress and behavior, I sensed a confidence and youthful vitality. Imagine, this fortified complex providing a safe refuge for the night — complete with restaurant, good place to park the camel, market, entertainment, and a great place to catch up on the latest news. This mural honors a martyr — one of hundreds of thousands who died fighting Saddam Hussein back in the 1980s. Local surveys indicate that about 70% of these women would dress more freely in public if allowed. Rick: Someday you must meet a boy. This is when the troubled relationship between Iran and the United States began. Rick: Nooshe jan, nooshe jan. Then, as today, Iranians celebrated their new year on the 21st of March, the first day of spring. Rick: Chemistry? Rick: That's what people say: If you want to eat well in Iran, make some friends. We're in Iran — here to learn, to understand, and to make some friends. Rick: Yeah. The portico features twenty slender and stately wooden columns. And should I give up life in pursuit of her favor Switzerland Writing in the 13th century he drew from his extensive travels and interactions with people from all walks of life. Rick: I'll shake your hand for her…OK? Those people who believed in Ali, as a successor of prophet Muhammad, and also his descendants, were Shiite, became Shiite. These splendid scenes seem to show off the very best of Persian life. Rick: Is this the beginning of the book here? The figure on the eagle's wing, that symbol of the Zoroastrian faith, is a reminder that the king's power came from Ahuramazda — the Zoroastrian god. Thank you. All nations can live in peace… if, you are compliant. In fact women outnumber Iranian men in both universities and in many respected professions. Well let's put it this way: if you want to get anywhere in Iran's military or government you better be a practicing Shiite Muslim. Rick: Thank you; that's nice to hear. Seeing the shafts of light swirling with ancient dust, it's easy to imagine the smell of cook fires so many centuries ago and the cacophony of sounds as travelers took shelter within these walls. Visitors are welcomed into Iranian homes as honored guests. Woman: It's the main problem and it's the main point of that distance between people and government. Many of these people could afford to live abroad, but prefer to live as economic elites here in the ritziest corner of Tehran. While modesty is enforced, vanity is not out of bounds. The script looks Arabic to me, but I learned — like the language — it's Farsi. Rick: Tell me, what is this for? Much of Iran is a high plateau. But that's handy for a conservative Muslim woman. IMO Rick's success has allowed him to become more politically active. City-woven carpets can be made of wool and/or silk. What are my hopes? It's considered a hedge against currency devaluation and inflation… and, it's dazzling to wear. Woman: It's not common to each other. Traditionally, women here wore their personal savings in the form of gold bracelets. What is this?< Traffic is notorious here. Iceland Walking the streets here, I felt a disturbing presence of government. Faces are beautifully made up and when so much else is covered, particularly expressive and mysterious. Tolerance?…to a degree. Rick: If I want say "hello," what do I say? Is it easy to get money changed in the Tehran airport even late at night? Rick: How many? In this recurring scene, a lion kills a bull symbolizing spring killing winter and bringing new life. I leave impressed more by what we have in common than by our differences. Underlining the ancient roots of this society, its design symbolizes a Zoroastrian fire altar and it's decorated with classic Persian motifs. Today it feels like the hostage crisis is old news and younger Iranians have moved on. Woman: Man. Then, defending his empire, the shah battles the Ottoman Turks — with their frightening new artillery — and manages to stop the Ottoman's Eastward juggernaut. Today, over two decades later, the cemetery is still very much alive with mourning loved ones. This disturbing mix of politics and religion apparently results from a deep seated resentment of Western culture imposed on their world. In this one-hour, groundbreaking travel special, you’ll discover the splendid monuments of Iran’s rich and glorious past, learn more about the 20th-century story of this perplexing nation, and experience Iranian life today in its historic capital and in a countryside village. He enjoyed summers in this one until the late 1970s. He had angered the West by nationalizing Iranian oil. Girls: You too, same here. Woman: [Knocking] That was a territorial thing, and also ambitions of a dictator, Saddam Hussein. Every country, including our own, limits access to foreign film crews. This is an important issue with the people of Iran. This scene struck me as similar to a church service back home — sermon… responsive reading… lots of prayer… lots of getting up, and getting down. I never considered the value of knowing if it's a boy or a girl at the door. Rick: About the people in Iran. Woman: Yes, I like to be. They are based on a predetermined design and usually have floral patterns. And, just across the stream, stands a caravansary — a road-side inn going back to the Middle Ages and the days of Marco Polo. Rick: I'm from the United States… Woman: Khomeini. In this episode, we explore three historic capitals of Iran: Persepolis, with its splendid monuments; Shiraz, with the tombs of Iran's most beloved poets; and Isfahan, with its extraordinary mosques and endearing people. This medallion symbolized humankind finding enlightenment in the one Zoroastrian god. Now fasten your seatbelts." Girls: OK, yeah, they find us. And those who didn't believe in the system, we call them Sunni's. Rick, there are lots of videos and photos of Iran posted on Youtube and Flikr. In the 1980's, one million casualties between Sunni Iraq and Shiite Iran. Rick: All of you are chemistry! In Iran, women's bodies are not vehicles for advertising. I don't know what the word is in Farsi…but they've got the paseo. Even today — 2500 years after their deaths — they're reminding us of their great power. In Tehran, I found simply wandering the shopping streets endlessly entertaining. The smaller mosque was built for the women of the shah's harem. Rick: What do you study? Hafez who lived in the early fourteenth century is entombed beneath this ornate canopy in this peaceful garden. Girls: OK, we may meet a boy, but we are not supposed to find a boy. Rick: Really? Leaving Tehran was quick and easy with its impressive system of highways. An hour's drive from Shiraz takes us to Persepolis, the dazzling capital of the Persian Empire back when it reached from Greece all the way to India. Two wheels are faster than four. After visiting Jerusalem, we harvest olives near Ramallah, follow pilgrims to the site of Jesus' birth in Bethlehem, approach Abraham's tomb — as both Jews and Muslims do — in Hebron, join friends for dinner, and bob in the Dead Sea. OK, alright. And the main industry seems to be selling dried fruits. So you can go here. Many of these bits of its ancient past go back 2000 years — to the age when silk and other treasures from the Orient began arriving in Europe. Filled with thousands of worshippers, the mosque comes to life. Iran, twice the size of France, sits in an increasingly important corner of Asia — surrounded by Turkey, Iraq, Pakistan, and Afghanistan. With the resulting turmoil, the shah was forced into exile. Immersed in the commotion of a busy work day — apart from the chador-covered women and lack of Western fast food chains — Tehran seemed much like any city in the developing world. Lions, a symbol of might, represented both the king and the power of the seasons. In 1979, Iranian university students successfully stormed the embassy, they took 52 hostages, and held them with the world looking on for 444 days. In this travel lecture, Rick Steves describes his experience traveling through Iran and filming his one-hour TV special, "Rick Steves' Iran." Women are perfectly welcome. Good for him. They should be friends. In fact cosmetic surgery — especially nose jobs — is big business here among the middle class. We produced the TV show to understand and humanize Iran. About people? Girls: Yeah, it's great. Even in our rushed modern world, Iranians take time to slow down and be meditative. Most important, we'll meet and talk with the people whose government so exasperates America. Rick, Thank you for visiting Iran. Seyed: They have got the same book, same holy book, it's called Koran. The murals seemed to drone on like an unwanted call to battle — a call which people I encountered it seems had simply stopped hearing. Man: Do you like to take a picture? Iranians come here to both connect with their heritage and to celebrate it. And Persepolis has been in ruins ever since. There is almost no public display of affection. Why do they fight and shed blood when the differences seem so small? Very difficult. I wish you could have visited as I did in 2003, ‘through the back door’, as the husband of an Iranian-American and free to travel on our own. Under its colorful dome, lattice windows illuminate intricate mosaic work. The entrance shows the geometric motif the Persians were famous for. Anywhere foreigners went, signs were bilingual: Farsi for locals…and English for everyone else. The National Museum of Iran helps to give an appreciation of this country's rich heritage. I’m Iranian and I wish there were more real images of Iran in the US that I could show my friends. Dating from the 1970s, it's one of the former Shah of Iran's many extravaganzas. Through the '60s there was a return to stability and the shah was a key American ally in the Middle East. In classrooms, it's men on one side and women on the other. But if you really want to shop with style, leave the gritty, intense central area and head to the hilly district of North Tehran. You then mix together and like this…. And in Farsi, the book starts where our books end. Rather than the impression I've long held…of a menacing ideologue, here he's considered a sage — and a champion of traditional values. And today in this predominately Muslim society a small Zoroastrian community still survives and worships freely. ", Rick: Salaam a'alaykum… If that's too long for me and I want to just say "hi.". I've overcome my fear by getting to know the Iranian people. His picture — not the president's — is everywhere. Rick: Do you say bon appétit? Thanks for joining us. Rick: Where do you meet a boy? Iran's main highway, slices through the empty landscape, linking the country's leading cities like a lifeline. Of Iran's 70 million people, well over half are under the age of 30. Rick: Yeah? Note on the script: This episode of Rick Steves' Europe was created with footage from the one-hour television special, "Rick Steves' Iran: Yesterday and Today." Dear Rick, as an American-Iranian living in your home country for 30 years, I thank you so very much for bringing just a few nice things about my beloved country, Iran. Supplicants gracefully climb the same steps we do, bringing offerings to the king. Girls: OK, it really works. But in Iran unfortunately the religious and the politics is mixed with each other. And yet here in the Islamic Republic of Iran, to me, the atmosphere felt surprisingly secular compared to other Muslim countries. Thử xem video này trên www.youtube.com hoặc bật JavaScript nếu JavaScript bị tắt trong trình duyệt của bạn. All the portraits and all the dates are from the 1980s. Rick: So I can go like…Salaam? It's a bustling scene as entertaining for its people watching as it is for its window-shopping. Many major streets actually intersect without the help of traffic lights. Rick: And you must cover your hair. Rick: Now I cannot shake your hand? Man: "Xoda" means "God," "hafez" means "keeper.". Struggling to understand the difference, I asked our local guide, Mr. Seyed Rehim Bathaei, to explain. His lyrical poems are noted for their beauty. Submit totally to him for the good of Persia. Rick: OK. And I can shake his hand? In this episode, Rick Steves explores three historic capitals of Iran: Persepolis, with its splendid monuments; Shiraz, with the tombs of Iran's most beloved poets; and Esfahan, with its extraordinary mosques and endearing people. Rick: Oh, they find you? If you're traveling with a tour company, I'd ask their most recent advice. As a matter of fact…sometimes the direction of traffic is ignored as well. For an American, it'd be like having Montecello, Cape Canaveral, and Mount Rushmore all rolled into one magnificent sight. But segregation is the rule. Persian is a different language than arabic but the script is the same (except we have 4 extra letters). So they installed the pro-Western shah instead. Compliance raged. Two striking mosques face Imam Square. I hope you saw that us, Iranian, are not that bad as our president, Bush, tries to brain wash people against Iranian. Man: Salaam. Sayed: They both go to heaven. Rick: You'll be happy. Rick: Does it work OK? Dropping into this book store and surveying its selection, the Persian passion for poetry became clear…. Of you’re comparing Iran to isolated, war torn Soviet Block states, then you REALLY should go to Iran as a tourist first and not with a cameraman because you need a LOT of acclimation. Like a vast department store, the bazaar has different sections. The constitution does allow for other religions as long as they don't offend Islam. The reflective roofs help residents weather blistering summers. Perhaps the two greatest were Hafez and Saadi, who lived here centuries ago. Ohh… mamnūnam, mamnūnam very much. At the "Nations' Gate" dignitaries from the 28 nations subjugated by Persia entered "we're not worthy"-style to pay their taxes and humble respect to the emperor. Rick: Xodâhâfez. Iran is ruled by a theocracy. I came home with a one-hour public television special (“Rick Steves Iran: Yesterday and Today”) that attempted to understand the Iranian psyche and humanize the Iranian people. It's a smoggy, mile high metropolis. Woman 3: For example? You know, all over Europe you've got this passegiata / paseo — people are out during the magic hour. I found that, like in my country, there's a tension between modern and traditional, liberal and conservative, secular and religious. His take on wardrobe said that women must wear a hijab (head scarf) but not a chador (over-robe). Then we came across the village of Abyaneh nestled in its valley. Man: You must say: "Al salaam a'alaykum. But there are perplexing differences: women worship in a separate section; soldiers stand guard among the worshippers — a reminder of the tensions within today's Islamic world; … and the seemingly innocuous yellow banner in the background proclaims death to Israel. And this one glorifies Hezbollah fighters and their struggle with Israel which many here consider Americas' 51st state. OK? Seyed: Difference is very simple. Hello, I am going to Iran in October and I just have a few questions. He built it to celebrate the 2500th anniversary of the Persian Empire and all the mighty Persian kings who came before him. That's the same for Sunni and Shiite's… There are only minor differences. Rick: Thank you, your heart is kind, too. Just outside of town, we drop by the great mosque containing the tomb of Ayatollah Khomeini. Europe for Foodies And the flip side of fear is understanding. Straddling its river, Esfahan is famous for its marvelous bridges which date to the 17th century. Way back in the 5th century, the eternal flame of what many consider the first monotheistic religion, Zoroastrianism, burned from this mountain top temple. As I settled into the plane flying us between two Iranian towns, the pilot announced, "In the name of God the compassionate and merciful, we welcome you to this flight. As the personification of the Islamic Revolution, he symbolized deliverance from the economic oppression and Western decadence of the Shah. Rick: So you are a modern young woman? Rick: But there's so much bloodshed between Sunni's and Shiite's. I'm not surprised that this city is Iran's number one honeymoon destination. You've probably seen Rick's 2008 TV show filmed in Iran and accompanying materials? We're here it seems with much of Esfahan for Friday prayers. But now, in Rick: So this would be lamb mostly. So you have no worries about this. Whatever the root causes — religious or nationalism…the Sunni and Shiite Muslims share a bloody past. The collection starts in prehistoric times, back when nomadic hunters were becoming farmers. Whether on a plane, or simply walking the streets of any city here, it's clear that Iran is ruled by a theocracy. I don't think so…I'll give you…Oh, Khomeini? Girls: Your friends? The Chehel Sotun Palace is a vivid reminder that Esfahan was the capital of Persia 400 years ago. Do you like to take a picture together? A place and time when farming and the domestication of animals helped give rise to the first great civilizations. Iran served as a thoroughfare for the legendary Silk Road. Religious freedom? But wandering through campus, we learned that free tuition comes with strict guidelines as dictated by the theocracy. Those who remain are old and seem to have an abundance of time on their hands. We met two families, who each lost a son in the war, sharing a meal. Note on the script: This episode of Rick Steves' Europe was created with footage from the one-hour television special, "Rick Steves' Iran: Yesterday and Today." [Woman reading poem in Farsi (translation below)], The links of the beloved's hair form a chain of suffering Essentially: the king is empowered by god. We've been invited into a fairly wealthy family's home for dinner and a look at the modern domestic scene. In 333 BC Persepolis was sacked and burned by Alexander the Great — the Macedonian Greek who turned the tide against the Persian Empire. Rick: Do you have friends that you come to see on the river? So, it surprised me. No, we just come here with our families. To enjoy a rich and fascinating culture, to get to know a nation that's a leader in its corner of the world — and has been for 2,500 years, and to better understand the 70 million people who call this place home. Rick: That's good, I hope you're happy. Ireland It was a 5,000 mile long trade route connecting China and Istanbul — the gateway to Europe. Join Rick Steves as he explores the most surprising and fascinating land he's ever visited: Iran. Like most Americans, I know almost nothing about Iran. So that's what they call a bill for the tourists…a "Khomeini.". But wear that helmet. This mosque's cantor is happy to demonstrate the splendid acoustics of its 17th century dome. Girls: No, we don't meet a boy usually. There was no real student union center, just a small commons in each department…with a snack bar for men and an adjacent one for women. As history has taught us, no empire lasts forever. Coming here you have high expectations. Rick: Salaam... salaam… and if I want to say goodbye? I was impressed by how the people we met were curious and eager to talk. One of the finest cities in Islam and the cultural heart of Iran, it's famous for its dazzling blue tiled domes and romantic bridges. It's traditional in Iran to picnic at the gravesites of lost loved ones. As the sun goes down the people of Esfahan also gather in Imam square as if to savor the beauty of their city at twilight. I will go like this…can I take a picture with you and me? Before I know it my plate is filled with fish, kebabs, two kinds of rice, eggplant, and tomatoes…the conversation is as lively as at any home I've visited in Europe. Tehran's thriving subway moves over a million people a day. In the spring of 2008, my TV crew and I traveled to Iran to film Rick Steves' Iran, Yesterday and Today — a one-hour travel special which appeared on public television stations across the US in 2009. see our FAQ. The unrest led to crackdowns by the shah's forces that tortured and killed thousands. Iranians are predominately Shiite Muslim, not Sunni Muslim. Iran is nothing like Cuba or Nicaragua, or Saudi Arabia etc. Any interaction between men and women seemed very discrete. Travel as a Political Act, England & Wales In this episode, Rick Steves explores three historic capitals of Iran: Persepolis, with its splendid monuments; Shiraz, with the tombs of Iran's most beloved poets; and Esfahan, with its extraordinary mosques and endearing people. It has exquisite tile work and was constructed in the early 1600s. Our flight comes in at 2:30 am. With a teeming population of about ten million, its apartment blocks stretch far into the surrounding mountains. Rick: Might you meet a boy down here? And between those bridges, stretching for six miles on either bank is a much-loved city park. This encounter provided an opportunity for a quick language lesson. Then in about 500 BC, with the great kings Darius and Xerxes, the mighty Persian Empire was established. Later, a second Persian Empire was conquered by Arabs. Heading further south, I was impressed by the stark beauty of the countryside. 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